Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Eastern Algarve - Olhão

From Faro we drove about 15 or 20 Km to Olhāo, a fishing port city of about 30,000 people, situated immediately adjacent to the Ria Formosa (more about the Ria Formosa later). Olhão takes its name from a big natural water fountain, an "eye of water", the locals call it (Olhão means Big Eye).
On arrival we visited the very busy farmers' market and the quite extensive fish market. The markets here are not unlike those in Loulé - both have an abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables including things like fresh oranges, lemons, almonds, figs and dates, all products that were introduced by the Moors - and both are very busy.
I know almost nothing about fish but there are definitely fresh fish here that I haven't seen in the Hamilton market including things like octopus, golden bream, giant eels and monk fish. To the right is a Monk fish - nearly a meter from end to end.
And this is the jaw of the Monk fish - the open jaw is about 8 to 10 inches from top to bottom. Click on the photo (or any of the photos) to see a slightly larger image.

More farmers' market looking toward the Ria Formosa and the ocean.

After the market visit we had lunch in a restaurant that our guide, Irie, knows well. Then we walked around the old town through characteristic very narrow streets while Irie related bits about the history of Olhāo, also known as Olhāo da Restauração or Olhāo of the Restoration.

The next two photos were taken on our walk around the old parts of the city.
The story behind the name Olhāo da Restauração is interesting. The Olhaneses (inhabitants of Olhão) are famous for a trip to Brazil made by 17 local fisherman in 1819 or 1820 in a small fishing boat (60-65 ft) without maps or any guiding tools but the stars. During an invasion of Portugal by the French, King John VI of Portugal and his family fled to Brazil for refuge. When the French were defeated Portugal was without a monarch and government so 17 local fishermen set out for Brazil in a sailing boat like the replica in the last photo to inform the King that the French had been sent packing and the country needed him to return. The King and family returned to Portugal restoring the monarchy and, therefore the government. Hence the new name, Olhāo of the Restoration.
One of the King's sons, Pedro, was in love with the South American colony and decided to stay in Brazil. It seems that he loved Brazil so much that he decided to grant the colony independence, an act which did not gain him favour with his family and made him "persona non grata" in Portugal but, likely, a popular man in the independent country of Brazil.

Next, Santa Luzia.

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