Orte

This small town which we visited on our way from Rome to our first hotel isn't mentioned in the Lonely Planet book on Tuscany and Umbria, but it was an ideal introduction to the area. It is perched on a volcanic "plug" so provides excellent vistas like many we would see in the coming days. We were tired from the trip and little sleep so a very small town was perfect. After being impressed by the remains of the Roman aqueduct and a brief geology lesson, we walked up into the town, found our way to a small restaurant and had a nice relaxing lunch - then back to the bus and on to our first hotel.
Time for photos was brief but there was time to capture the view from the road we walked up to get to the town, the town square with it's chain fence and a few other narrow streets and adjacent buildings.
Of my collection of doors (see Doors and other portals)the one I like most is here in Orte.

R

Volterra

Click on any image to enlarge it.

Also, see Day 4 notes and photos from September 18, 2007.

Volterra (pop 11,000) was established by the Etruscans as Velathri, an active trading centre, which was absorbed into the Roman confederation in around 260BC when its name was changed to Volterra. In mid 1300's it was taken under the control of Florence during the continuing battles between Florence and Siena for dominance in the region. The baptistery shows characteristics of both Florentine (pro-Pope Guelf) and Siennese (pro empire Ghibelline)architecture.
Since Etruscan times (Etruscans were well established in this area as early as 800BC)the town has been a centre of alabaster extraction and workmanship. Though the quarries were relatively inactive in the middle ages, they were revived in the renaissance period when the stone became popular again. All manner of alabaster items are available in the shops..
One of Italy's finest Etruscan museums is here in Volterra, Museo Ettrusco Guarnacci.
Just outside the walls are the remains of a Roman theatre and there is an active archeological site near the Roman fort, now a prison.
Rich

Map of Tuscany and Umbria

Should have included a map earlier but this should help locate the places mentioned in the recent postings.
All the places we visited are identified on the map - the ones referred to in recent postings are in large dark print - the ones not yet posted or mentioned since October are in white. For a larger image, click on the map.
R

San Gimignano

This is one of my favorite places - the town of fine towers. The towers, though plain, were once a sign of wealth and power, higher signifying more of each. At one point, apparently, the town administration passed a law limiting the height of each tower. One wealthy citizen, determined to demonstrate the level of his wealth circumvented the law by building two towers each reaching the maximum allowable height.
If you have seen the movie, "Tea with Mussolini" you may recognize that quite a bit of it took place in San Gimignano.

R

Pienza

Pienza (pop 2200) example of early renaissance town planning initiated by Pope Pius 2 when he decided to "upgrade" his home town. (These blog entries contain some repetition from entries in October postings - sorry about that.) He commissioned the building of a cathedral and a "palace" for his own use - the Palazzo Piccolomini - on two sides of the town Piazza Pio II. There was little space for the architect to use and the Pope was in a hurry, all of which seems to have contributed to inadequate structural support for the cathedral as the transept and apse are now sinking producing large cracks throughout the front of the church.
There are three collections of photos here (one outside and one inside the cathedral and palazzo) and a third of photos from in Pienza and some views from the overlook areas.
R

Abbeys San Galgano and Monte Oliveto Maggiore

Abbey San Galgano, it is said, was once one of the finest 13th century Gothic buildings in Tuscany. Nearby is the Capella di Monte, the site of the original Cistercian settlement from which came the impulse to build the great Abbey now named in honor of San Galgano. San Galgano was a soldier come saint, who, allegedly, had a vision of St. Michael on this site. In renouncing his worldly life, he apparently plunged his sword into a rock and rock with embedded sword remain there on display. The Abbey, though originally home to quite powerful monks, had a relatively short life span and has been in ruins since the 16th century.

Abbey Monte Oliveto Maggiore is a 14th century renaissance structure with a baroque interior. One interior wall is lined with frescoes illustrating events in the life of St. Benedict whose philosophy, some say, is the basis for the philosophy of the Benedictine monks. This Abbey is still a retreat for 40 monks whose dining area is shown in the photo top right.

R

The Abbey Sant Antimo in Tuscany

Three collections of photos from Abbey Sant Antimo, one set outside the Abbey and one inside. The third group of photos shows the variety of fascinating small sculpted figures which are in place in many areas around the outside of the Abbey buildings. If you look closely at one of the earlier Sant Antimo figures you might see a couple of these in place.

Many of these sculptures were brought here from ruins in the region - examples of medieval recycling!


This is an active Abbey and if one arrives early enough in the morning it is possible to hear the monks singing Gregorian Chant. Unfortunately, we didn't get there in time.
R

Gates to Hilltowns of Tuscany and Umbria

This is a collection of photos of gates into the walled towns of (top left to right) San Gimignano (2), Monte Oliveto Maggiore, (left centre) Montefalco, (bottom, left to right) Volterra, Assisi and Pienza. Click on the image to enlarge it.
R

Doors and other portals Tuscany and Umbria

Collages of doors and other portals in Tuscany and Umbria.
R