Beresford to Carleton sur mer on the Gaspésie

Hoorah! Wednesday morning, departure day, we woke to a sunny day and warmer temperatures than we have experienced for some time. So, we are leaving for our next destination - Carleton sur mer in the Gaspésie. (We have learned that Gaspésie is the “official” name for the Gaspé Peninsula and that the origin of the name "Gaspé" comes from the Mi'kmaq word gespe'g, meaning "end", referring to the end of the land.)

Remember to click on any photo to see a larger version.

But, before talking about the trip I want to say that, while this trip has been a joint effort, Ruth has done the lion's share of the work. Without her organization both at the outset and throughout the trip it would have been abandoned before it started or very early en route! And we have become increasingly efficient at moving our relatively large amount of stuff into and out of car and motels so that we can accomplish it quite quickly. So, my thanks to her for all of that, and for reviewing my blog before it gets published with all of the typos. And one other thing that made this trip possible was our acquisition of a small refrigerator which works on the car battery and on 110 volts with an adapter. If you are ever planning a trip like the one we have been on, especially with an 80 pound dog on a raw food diet, I highly recommend this terrific device! And, it’s made in Canada.

The fossil cliff at the National Park of Miguasha

The drive to the Gaspésie took us along the New Brunswick coast, and more quite lovely scenery, spoiled around Belladune by a smelting plant and a large generating station both belching out almost enough emmisons into the air to resemble Hamilton’s steel plants.  In Campbellton, New Brunswick, we stopped at  Sugarloaf Mountain provincial park where, we were told, we should experience the spectacular view from this rather unusually large mound of rock seemingly misplaced on an otherwise relatively flat landscape. But we failed to experience the view as, true to our experience so far with such attractions, it was not yet open.  But we did stay in the parking lot and eat our lunch. 

View from Mount St. Joseph in Carleton sur mer

Shortly after entering the Gaspésie Ruth, in perusing the bits of information we had gathered, noticed the extremely small National Park of Miguasha, also a UNESCO World Heritage site, which we learned was a world renowned source of important Devonian fossils - fauna in transition from water to land forms. There was a short walking trail which allowed access to the beach and the shale wall which has been the source of the fossil evidence for which this place is so well known in the world of geology and palaeontology. I visited the wall but failed to find any fossil forms. After our visit to the Park we went on to Auberge de Caps motel in Carleton sur mer.

From Mt. St. Joseph - sand bar extending into the
Bay of Chaleur

In searching for our accommodations in the Gaspésie we have learned that the towns and/or regions, are spread

out along the road and the coast with a few houses here and there, for quite long distances. So when you think you are in the town you are looking for, you may not actually be there yet.  In fact, you may find that you have to drive for several kilometres before you find your destination.

The Auberge de Caps was an interesting place: spartan, but with rooms looking right on to the

Baie de Chaleur!

More Mount St. Joseph

The reception area was small and the receptionist was a very friendly and helpful person who offered to help us bring our belongings into the room! We declined the generous offer. She also was extremely helpful in informing us about places to eat - including recommendations about the quality and price of each - and things of interest around Carleton sur mer.

Park in Carleton sur mer

She also explained that breakfast would be in the adjacent room at 7 am.

Sand bar and water basin - Park in Carleton sur mer

We had brought food for dinner so did not try any of the places that she had recommended. When we went for breakfast, there she was again, having set a table for us with bread and spreads for toast and offering coffee and orange juice.  We were the only ones in the room which was simple but clean and well equipped with dishes and appliances which we could have used to prepare our own meal. She puttered about, sweeping the floor and chatting.

Park in Carleton sur mer

We learned that she is a retired nurse who, with 2 partners, turned this former retirement home,into a motel in 1992. She now runs it on her own with one hired maintenance man! And, she loves her job! One of the points of interest that our motel friend mentioned was Mount St. Joseph, a 555 meter high site in the centre of Carleton sur mer. I decided to take this steep drive to the top for a quite spectacular view! After a moderately unsettling drive down I went to the park - an area within the city which is protected from the bay waters by a long sand bar which provides not only protection but a lovely walking area.

More Park in Carleton

Thursday after breakfast of toast and our interesting talk with motel owner we set off under clear skies for our next destination, the city of Gaspé which is close to the eastern end of Gaspésie.